A lot of current tide was high, and then my coach came in and helped me paddle out, just timed it right and everything. And then I finally got out there and I was just terrified. It was by far at that point in my life, the biggest surf I had ever been in, and everyone was really spread out. I didn't really have anyone near me. And each time a way past, it felt like just a Hill of water
I have a surfing story I'd like to share my name's unit. I've been addicted to surfing for probably like ten years. This happens within a couple of months ago at Steamer Land in Santa Cruz, California. The waves were about seven to 8ft. I was having a really fun session, but the horror came as I was paddling in
Owen Carlson
@Owen · 4:23
What's up, Ian? That was a very interesting story, and it actually reminded me of definitely my scariest by far, my scariest surfing story also at the Lane. And it actually happened recently. As you know, I'm going to explain this to the people. I moved to San Cruz about seven months ago and within the first week of me being here, I sustained an awful injury