And I've actually posted a photo here from the most recent swell out here in Far Rockaway, Queens, New York. This is me on my favorite board. It's a 58 shortboard, and I'm doing what's called a fully extended carve here. This is why I trained my body and my mind so when the waves come, I can go and surf and do my best. So anyway, I'm just jumping on swell here to show some gratitude. It's Friday
Rocío (Ro) Christensen
@rocio · 0:59
We still get a bit of summer vibes filtering in and out. It's kind of hard for this deserted little plain to let go of the heat. But leaves are falling, the cold is coming. I feel it. I'm feeling it. Happy equinox and happy Libra season. Double Libra
Jack .
@zejacques · 2:29
So the first one that you saw, I'm like extended and you can see my top half and bottom half my body going different ways and then that split second later, my top half stays the same, but my hips swivel and you can see the board in this changes direction back to the white water, just sharing because I'm soaked on it. I don't have someone filming me or someone that can just have shooting me all the time, which is the best way to improve someone
